Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, achieving professional-quality results starts with understanding your sewing machine settings and choosing the right needle for your fabric. Different materials have unique characteristics, and using the wrong needle size or incorrect tension can lead to skipped stitches, puckering, or even damage to your project.
In this guide, I break down everything you need to know about sewing machine settings, stitch lengths, and the ideal needle sizes for a wide range of fabrics from delicate chiffon and silk, common cottons and linens, to heavy denim.
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Sewing machine needles
What do the numbers on a sewing machine needle mean?
First, is to understand what those tiny little numbers at the top of the needle or on the packet mean…
The numbers on sewing machine needles indicate the size of the needle, specifically its diameter, and are usually presented as two numbers – for example, 70/10 or 90/14.
- The first number is the metric size: This is the diameter of the needle in hundredths of a millimetre. For example: 70 means the needle is 0.7mm thick and 90 means the needle is 0.9mm thick.
- The second number is this Imperial size: This is the corresponding size in the old Singer system which was an American standard. It’s less precise but still widely used. For example: 10 corresponds to a finer needle and 14 corresponds to a medium needle.
Machine needle summary
- Smaller numbers (e.g., 60/8, 70/10): These needles are finer and used for lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, or fine cotton.
- Larger numbers (e.g., 100/16, 110/18): These needles are thicker and used for heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, or upholstery fabric.
Sewing machine needle types
- Universal sewing machine needle: A universal sewing machine needle is a versatile, all-purpose needle designed to work with a wide range of fabrics. It is the most commonly used needle type and is a staple in any sewer’s toolkit because of its ability to handle both woven and knit fabrics.
- Microtex sewing machine needle: A Microtex sewing machine needle is a specially designed needle with a very sharp, slim point that provides precise and clean stitching. It is ideal for sewing fine, delicate, or tightly woven fabrics where precision is crucial.
- Denim sewing machine needle: Also called a jeans needle, it is a specialised needle designed for sewing through thick, tightly woven fabrics like denim, canvas, and other heavy-duty materials. It is built to handle the challenges of these tough fabrics without bending, breaking, or skipping stitches.
What’s the best needle size to use for standard sewing?
For standard sewing of everyday fabrics, the best needle size typically depends on the fabric weight. A versatile option is a universal needle in size 80/12, which works well for medium-weight woven fabrics like cotton or polyester.
- Lightweight fabrics (e.g., silk, voile, chiffon): Use a 70/10 needle.
- Medium-weight fabrics (e.g., quilting cotton, linen, broadcloth): Use an 80/12 needle.
- Heavyweight fabrics (e.g., denim, canvas): Use a 90/14 or 100/16 needle.
Sewing machine stitch length and tension settings
Getting your sewing machine stitch length and tension just right is key to producing clean, even seams that complement your fabric and will stand the test of time.
- Stitch length: How tight or loose your stitches are.
- Tension: Controls the balance between the upper and lower threads.
Both the stitch length and tension settings need to be adjusted based on the type and weight of your fabric to avoid issues like puckering, skipped stitches, or uneven seams.
Important: The settings below should be used as a guide only. Not all fabrics are the same, for example, some cottons are thicker than others. Additionally, sewing machines differ and the settings required can vary from machine to machine. I recommend first trying the settings below in a test scrap of fabric and make the necessary adjustments, where required.
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Sewing cotton and linen fabrics
Cotton is a natural fibre harvested from the seed pods of the cotton plant. Its use dates back to ancient civilizations, and it remains one of the most widely utilised fibres globally.
The quality of cotton is largely determined by its fibre length, known as staple length. Cotton fibres are classified as either short (staple) or long, with longer fibres being associated with superior quality. Longer staple lengths are used in premium products, such as luxury bed linens and fine clothing, as they produce smoother, stronger, and softer fabrics.
Cotton’s popularity is due to its many beneficial properties. It is breathable, moisture-wicking, and hypoallergenic, making it a preferred choice for warm climates and sensitive skin. Additionally, cotton is durable and biodegradable, which makes it an environmentally friendly option compared to synthetic alternatives.
However, traditional cotton farming has environmental challenges, such as high water usage and pesticide application. In response, sustainable practices like organic farming and integrated pest management are being increasingly adopted to mitigate these effects. Consumers are also driving demand for responsibly sourced cotton products, leading to certifications and standards that promote sustainable production.
Cotton (lightweight to medium-weight)
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 70/10 (for lightweight cotton) or 80/12 (for medium-weight cotton)
- Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
- Tension: 4–5 (standard setting)
Tip: For lightweight cotton, use slightly shorter stitches. Test on a scrap piece first to ensure balanced tension. Use a slightly larger needle for heavier cotton to prevent skipped stitches.
Cotton and Linen Mix
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Stitch Length: 2.5–3.0 mm
- Tension: 4–5
Tip: This mix generally behaves like medium-weight fabric, so an all-purpose needle works well. Use a medium stitch length to handle the natural fibres without puckering.
Dress-Weight Linen
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
- Tension: 4–5
Tip: For finer linen, ensure the needle is sharp to avoid pulling the fabric’s fibres. Use a sharp needle and ensure tension is balanced to avoid pulling the fibres.
Suiting Linen
- Needle Type: Universal or Microtex
- Needle Size: 90/14
- Stitch Length: 3.0–3.5 mm
- Tension: 4–6
Tip: Heavier suiting linen needs a sturdier needle for clean stitching. A longer stitch length works better for heavier fabrics to avoid unnecessary bulk in the seams.
Broderie Anglaise
- Needle Type: Universal or Embroidery
- Needle Size: 70/10 or 80/12
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
Tip: Use a fine needle and avoid pulling on the fabric to protect the embroidery details. Choose a smaller needle for delicate embroidered fabrics to avoid damaging the eyelets.
Calico
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12 (for light-to-medium-weight calico) or 90/14 (for heavier calico)
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
Tip: Universal needles work well for this versatile fabric. Use a standard needle size to handle this slightly coarse fabric.
Chambray
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 2.5–3.0 mm
Tip: Chambray is lightweight and tightly woven, so a medium needle works well. Medium-length stitches work best for this lightweight, woven fabric.
Corduroy
- Needle Type: Universal or Denim
- Needle Size: 90/14
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 3.0 mm
Tip: Use a walking foot to avoid shifting or crushing the pile. Use a sharp needle to sew through thick, ridged fabric without snagging the pile.
Denim
- Needle Type: Denim/Jeans
- Needle Size: 90/14 (for lightweight denim) or 100/16 (for heavier denim)
- Tension: 4–6
- Stitch Length: 3.0–4.0 mm
Tip: Use a denim needle and heavy-duty thread for strong seams. A specialty denim needle is designed to penetrate dense, thick fabric.
Gingham
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
Tip: This lightweight woven fabric works well with a medium-sized universal needle. Test tension on a scrap to avoid puckering.
Jersey
- Needle Type: Ballpoint or Stretch
- Needle Size: 70/10 or 80/12
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.5–3.0 mm
Tip: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle and a narrow zigzag stitch. Ballpoint or stretch needles prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage when sewing knits.
Madras
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Tension: 4
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
Tip: This lightweight, loosely woven fabric requires a sharp, standard needle.
Muslin
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 70/10 or 80/12
- Tension: 4
Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
Tip: Use short stitches to maintain fabric stability.A fine needle works well for lightweight, loosely woven muslin to avoid pulling threads.
Velvet
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Tension: 4
- Stitch Length: 3.0 mm
Tip: Reduce presser foot pressure to avoid crushing the pile. A sharp needle prevents damage to the fabric pile. Use a walking foot for better control.
Sewing wool fabrics
Wool is a versatile and natural fibre, most commonly sourced from sheep. Wool can also come from other animals—goats produce mohair and cashmere, rabbits give us angora, and fibres can even be obtained from camels and alpacas.
Australian Merino wool is considered the best and is renowned for it’s exceptional softness and quality (shout out to our Aussie farmers!)
Wool fibres can be spun in different ways, resulting in two main types of yarn. Short, fluffy fibres are used to create woollen yarn, which is warm and cosy. Meanwhile, long, smooth fibres are spun into worsted yarn, known for its strength and sleek finish.
Virgin wool refers to wool that’s being used for the very first time. Wool can be recycled or reused, often blended with other fibres to create new materials, making it a sustainable and environmentally friendly fabric choice.
Cashmere
- Needle Type: Universal or Microtex (for finer weaves)
- Needle Size: 70/10 (lightweight cashmere) or 80/12 (medium-weight cashmere)
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.5–3.0 mm
Tip: Use a finer needle to avoid damaging the soft fibres. Use sharp needles and sew slowly to avoid stretching.
Crepe
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 60/8 or 70/10 (for lightweight crepe) or 80/12 (for medium crepe)
- Tension: 4
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
Tip: Microtex needles ensure smooth stitches on this textured fabric. Crepe fabric can snag, so opt for sharp needles like Microtex for smooth stitching.
Flannel
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12 (for lightweight flannel) or 90/14 (for heavier flannel)
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 2.5–3.0 mm
Tip: Use sharp needles for clean stitching on the brushed surface.A slightly larger needle prevents skipped stitches in thicker, brushed fibres.
Gabardine
- Needle Type: Microtex (for a clean finish on tightly woven fabric)
- Needle Size: 80/12 or 90/14 (depending on fabric weight)
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 3.0 mm
Tip: Use sharp needles to avoid puckering and ensure neat topstitching. Sharp needles ensure smooth stitching on this tightly woven fabric.
Mohair
- Needle Type: Universal or Ballpoint
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 3.0 mm
Tip: Reduce presser foot pressure and use a walking foot to avoid flattening the fibres. Mohair is often delicate; avoid sharp needles that might pull fibres.
Tartan
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12 or 90/14 (depending on tartan weight)
- Tension: 4–5
- Stitch Length: 3.0 mm
Tip: Match plaid patterns before sewing for a professional finish. Heavier tartans may require a larger needle to handle the layers and seams.
Tweed
- Needle Type: Universal or Denim/Jeans
- Needle Size: 90/14 or 100/16 (for thicker tweeds)
- Tension: 4–6
- Stitch Length: 3.0–3.5 mm
Tip: A walking foot helps with uneven texture Use a heavy-duty needle for durable stitching through thicker, textured fabric.
Sewing silk fabrics
Silk is one of the most luxurious and highly prized fabrics in the world (and my personal favourites) It is known for its softness, sheen, and elegance.
This natural fibre is produced by silkworms which spin cocoons of fine, continuous threads. The origins of silk date back thousands of years to ancient China, where it was first cultivated and became a closely guarded secret for centuries. Today, silk production, also known as sericulture, is carried out in many parts of the world, with China and India being the largest producers.
Silk is celebrated for its smooth texture, strength, and natural shine, making it a popular choice for high-end clothing, bedding, and accessories. Beyond its beauty, silk is also highly functional—it is lightweight, breathable, and temperature-regulating, keeping the wearer cool in summer and warm in winter. With its timeless appeal and unique properties, silk remains a symbol of luxury and refinement across the globe.
Silk
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 60/8 or 70/10
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
Tip: Use a fine thread and Microtex needle to avoid snags. Choose a fine, sharp needle to handle the lightweight, delicate weave of silk without causing pulls.
Chiffon
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 60/8 or 70/10
- Tension: 3-4
- Stitch length: 2.0-2.5mm
Tip: A shorter stitch length ensures clean and secure seams while avoiding loose or uneven stitches on the fine fabric. Use slightly lower tension to prevent puckering and pulling of the delicate fabric. Use a fine needle to avoid snagging the delicate fibres of this sheer fabric.
Duchess Satin
- Needle Type: Microtex
- Needle Size: 70/10 or 80/12
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.5–3.0 mm
Tip: Use sharp needles and sew slowly to prevent puckering. A sharp needle ensures smooth stitching on this tightly woven, heavy satin.
Organza
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 60/8 or 70/10
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
Tip: You can stabilise organza with tissue paper to avoid distortion. A fine, sharp needle is essential for preventing runs or tears in this sheer fabric.
Satin
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 70/10 or 80/12
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
Tip: Reduce presser foot pressure to prevent fabric shifting. A sharp needle reduces puckering and ensures clean, smooth seams on this slippery fabric.
Taffeta
- Needle Type: Microtex
- Needle Size: 70/10 or 80/12
- Tension: 3–4
- Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
Tip: Use a sharp needle and avoid overly tight tension to reduce puckering and for precise stitching on this crisp, tightly woven fabric.
Sewing synthetic fabrics
Synthetic fabrics are man-made textiles created through chemical processes, typically using polymers derived from petroleum or natural gas. Unlike natural fibres, such as cotton or silk, synthetic fabrics are engineered to achieve specific properties like durability, stretch, water resistance, or wrinkle-free performance.
The production of synthetic fabrics began in the early 20th century, with materials like nylon and polyester revolutionizing the textile industry. Today, these fabrics are widely used in everything from clothing and accessories to home furnishings and industrial applications.
What makes synthetic fabrics particularly appealing is their versatility and affordability. They can mimic the appearance and feel of natural fibres while offering enhanced features, such as greater strength, reduced shrinkage, and resistance to stains or moisture. However, synthetic fabrics also come with environmental challenges, including their reliance on non-renewable resources and their slow biodegradability. Despite these concerns, innovations in recycling and eco-friendly production methods are helping to make synthetic textiles a more sustainable option in the modern world.
Machine needle sizes for synthetic fabrics
Stretch needles are specifically designed for highly elastic fabrics like Lycra, spandex, or stretchy synthetics. They have a slightly rounded tip and a special scarf (groove) to prevent skipped stitches.
Ballpoint needles are ideal for synthetic knit fabrics, as the rounded tip slides between the fibres without piercing or damaging them.
- For lightweight synthetics or Lycra: Use 70/10 or 75/11.
- For medium-weight synthetics or Lycra: Use 80/12.
- For heavier synthetic stretch fabrics (e.g., thick activewear): Use 90/14.
Tips for sewing synthetic fabrics
Use polyester thread or stretch-specific thread for the best results with stretchy fabrics. Adjust the sewing machine’s stitch to a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch to accommodate the fabric’s elasticity. This combination ensures strong, flexible seams that won’t snap under tension.
Acrylic
- Needle Type: Universal
- Needle Size: 80/12
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
- Tension: 4–5
Tip: Use a medium-sized needle to handle synthetic fibres effectively. Acrylic is synthetic and slippery, so maintain a medium stitch length and ensure even feeding with a walking foot if necessary.
Polyester
- Needle Type: Universal or Microtex (for fine polyester fabrics)
- Needle Size: 70/10 (for lightweight polyester) or 80/12 (for medium-weight polyester)
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm
- Tension: 4–5
Tip: A sharp needle prevents snagging on synthetic fibres. Adjust tension slightly if needed to prevent puckering on lightweight polyester fabrics.
Rayon
- Needle Type: Microtex or Universal
- Needle Size: 70/10 (for lightweight rayon) or 80/12 (for medium-weight rayon)
- Stitch Length: 2.0–2.5 mm
- Tension: 3–4
Tip: A fine, sharp needle prevents damage to the delicate weave of rayon. Rayon is delicate, so use shorter stitches and a slightly lower tension to avoid distortion or puckering.
Synthetic Furs
- Needle Type: Universal or Denim/Jeans
- Needle Size: 90/14 or 100/16
- Stitch Length: 3.0–4.0 mm
- Tension: 5–6
Tip: Use a heavy-duty needle for thick and plush synthetic fur layers. Use a longer stitch length to sew through thick layers without jamming or pulling. Reduce presser foot pressure if needed.
Small Group Sewing Classes and Private Lessons
Learn how to sew and use your sewing machine with confidence. All sewing classes are beginner friendly, fun, supportive and hands-on. With a maximum of 4 people per class, there is plenty of time for dedicated, one-on-one attention.
Classes are held at my sewing and clothes upcycling workshop in Frenchs Forest on Sydney’s Northern Beaches (near Northern Beaches Hospital). Private lessons and groups workshops can be held throughout Sydney at a location of your choice.
Scroll down to browse my sewing classes and lessons below.
A hands-on learn to sew class. Maximum 4 people…
Learn how to use your sewing machine with confi…