Environmental sustainability in fabrics is determined by several factors, including resource use, pollution, biodegradability, and end-of-life disposal. Switching to sustainable fabrics, using recycled options, and considering the entire lifecycle of materials can help reduce the environmental impact of textiles. Using recycled or upcycled fabric is the most effective way sewers can reduce their environmental impact.

Most environmentally friendly fabrics

Organic cotton, hemp, linen, lyocell (Tencel), recycled fabrics, and mechanically processed bamboo are among the most eco-friendly options.

These fabrics often require fewer resources to produce, are biodegradable, or have sustainable production practices.

Least environmentally friendly fabrics

Conventional polyester, conventional cotton, traditional viscose, acrylic, and nylon are some of the least sustainable choices.

They involve high water and energy use, contribute to pollution, and many are non-biodegradable, with synthetic fibres adding to microplastic pollution.

Choosing environmentally fabric for sewing

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilisers, or genetically modified seeds.

The environmental impact of organic cotton

Reduced chemical use protects ecosystems, water sources, and farmers’ health.
Organic cotton also uses less water than conventional cotton and can be composted at end-of-life.
Organic cotton still requires significant water and land use, but these are typically managed better than in conventional cotton farming.

Hemp

Hemp is a fast-growing, high-yield crop that requires minimal pesticides and water.

The environmental impact of hemp

Hemp improves soil quality and doesn’t deplete the soil.
It produces strong, durable fibres and has a high carbon absorption rate.
Processing hemp into fabric can be more labour-intensive.
Hemp fabric is often blended with other fibres, which may affect biodegradability.

Linen (from Flax)

Linen is made from the flax plant, which grows well in cool climates and requires less water and fewer pesticides.

The environmental impact of linen (from flax)

Linen is durable, biodegradable, and can be composted.
It also naturally softens with use, extending the lifespan of linen garments.

Lyocell / Tencel (Eco-Friendly Rayon)

Made from sustainably sourced wood pulp (e.g., eucalyptus) using a closed-loop process that recycles nearly all chemicals used.

The environmental impact of eco rayon

Low-impact production and biodegradable if left undyed.
Tencel is soft, moisture-wicking, and durable, making it a versatile fabric.
It is more expensive than traditional rayon, and some types of lyocell require additional treatments that affect biodegradability.

Tencel is a brand name for a type of fabric made from lyocell, a fibre derived from the cellulose found in wood pulp, typically sourced from eucalyptus, beech, and spruce trees. Tencel is produced by the Austrian company Lenzing AG and is known for its sustainable and environmentally friendly production process.

Recycled Fabrics (e.g., Recycled Polyester, Recycled Nylon)

Made by recycling existing polyester or nylon garments and plastic bottles.

The environmental impact of recycled fabrics

Reduces plastic waste, conserves resources, and can be recycled again.
Recycled polyester has a lower carbon footprint than virgin polyester.
Synthetic fibres release microplastics into water systems when washed.
Most recycled fabrics are not biodegradable.

Bamboo (Mechanically Processed)

Bamboo is a fast-growing, low-resource plant. When mechanically processed, bamboo fibres retain their natural structure.

The environmental impact of bamboo

Minimal water and no pesticides are needed to grow bamboo.
Mechanically processed bamboo (bamboo linen) is biodegradable.
Some bamboo fabrics are chemically processed, which diminishes eco-friendliness.
True bamboo linen can be more expensive and less soft than chemically processed bamboo rayon.

Conventional Polyester

Polyester fabric is made from synthetic fibres derived primarily from petroleum-based resources. The most common form of polyester is polyethylene terephthalate (PET), which is produced through a series of chemical reactions. Polyester is one of the most widely used synthetic fibres.

The environmental impact of polyester

Polyester production is energy-intensive, heavily reliant on fossil fuels, and emits a significant amount of greenhouse gases.
Polyester is a synthetic material that does not biodegrade easily, contributing to long-term plastic waste in landfills and oceans.
Polyester sheds microplastics into water systems with each wash, causing environmental harm that affects marine life and potentially human health.

Polyester can be recycled (e.g., through processes that turn post-consumer plastic bottles into new polyester fabric), which can help reduce some of its environmental footprint. Advancements in recycling technologies and the development of bio-based polyesters from renewable resources are efforts aimed at reducing the negative environmental impact of traditional polyester production.

Conventional Cotton

Cotton is natural and biodegradable, but conventional cotton farming is heavily resource-intensive.

The environmental impact of cotton (non-organic)

Conventional cotton uses large amounts of water and pesticides.
Cotton farming is responsible for a significant portion of pesticide use worldwide, harming ecosystems and human health.
Water scarcity and soil depletion are major issues in areas where conventional cotton is heavily farmed, often impacting local communities.

Viscose Rayon (Traditional)

Traditional viscose is derived from wood pulp but processed with harsh chemicals, including carbon disulphide (see below), which can be toxic.

The environmental impact of viscose rayon

Rayon production can lead to deforestation if wood is sourced unsustainably, and the chemical process produces significant waste and pollution.
The production of viscose rayon is water-intensive.
Though technically biodegradable, the chemicals involved in processing rayon may persist in the environment.

What is carbon disulphide?

Carbon disulphide (carbon disulfide) is essential in converting cellulose into cellulose xanthate, the precursor to viscose, which is then spun into rayon fibres or cast into cellophane. Carbon disulphide exposure can affect the central nervous system, causing symptoms like headaches, dizziness, mood changes, and, in severe cases, nerve damage. Chronic exposure can lead to long-term health problems, including reproductive and cardiovascular issues.

Carbon disulphide is harmful to ecosystems when released in large quantities, especially through water pollution. In rayon production, significant carbon disulphide emissions contribute to air pollution and environmental contamination.

Acrylic

Acrylic is made from polyacrylonitrile, a polymer derived from petrochemicals.

The environmental impact of acrylic

Production is highly polluting, emitting toxic fumes and producing non-biodegradable waste.
Acrylic fibres also release microplastics when washed, contributing to plastic pollution.
Acrylic can pill easily, reducing garment lifespan and increasing waste.

Nylon

Nylon is a synthetic polymer derived from petroleum but is also one of the first commercially successful synthetic fabrics. The process of creating nylon fabric from petroleum involves multiple steps of chemical processing, resulting in a strong, versatile fibre BUT it has a significant environmental impact due to its reliance on petrochemicals and energy-intensive processes.

The environmental impact of nylon

Nylon production relies on fossil fuels and is energy-intensive.
The production of adipic acid, a key component of nylon, releases nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas.
Nylon is a synthetic material that does not biodegrade, contributing to long-term plastic pollution that persists in the environment for hundreds of years.
Nylon fibres shed microplastics during washing, contributing to ocean pollution and affecting marine ecosystems.

Efforts are being made to reduce the environmental impact of nylon production, including recycling nylon (like Econyl, a recycled nylon made from discarded fishing nets and other waste) and developing alternative production methods that minimise greenhouse gas emissions.