There are many types of fabrics, each with unique features and some potential downsides. Each fabric type has its own personality in terms of texture, durability, and care needs, so choosing the right one depends on your project’s purpose and the kind of look and feel you’re going for.
What fabrics are easy and which are hard to sew?
Easy fabrics to sew. Beginner friendly.
Cotton, flannel, and medium-weight linen are forgiving and beginner-friendly.
Fabrics that require moderate expertise to sew.
Denim, polyester, and rayon require some skill due to thickness, fraying, or stretch.
Harder fabrics to sew. Require sewing experience.
Silk, chiffon, leather, velvet, and spandex present unique challenges, such as slipperiness, stretch, and thickness. These are better suited for advanced sewers.
Choosing the right fabric / material for your sewing projects
Each fabric type presents unique benefits and challenges when sewing. Selecting the right fabric for your skill level and understanding its characteristics can make sewing more enjoyable and successful. Starting with easier fabrics is a good way to build skills and confidence! Below I’ve explained the features and benefits of the different fabric types, including the ease or difficulty of sewing with each.
Cotton
Sewing difficulty: Easy
Cotton is a natural fibre that’s breathable, durable, and versatile. It’s easy to handle, has a smooth texture, and doesn’t slip or stretch easily, making it perfect for sewers of all levels, including beginners.
Cotton fabric holds stitches well, doesn’t fray excessively, and responds to ironing. Cotton is forgiving and easy to manage, so it’s ideal for practicing sewing techniques.
Advantages of cotton clothing
Soft, breathable, absorbent, easy to wash, and versatile. It’s suitable for most climates and is available in various weights and weaves.
Disadvantages of cotton clothing
Tends to wrinkle easily, can shrink in the wash if not pre-shrunk, and is prone to fading. It’s also not as durable in heavy use as some synthetic fabrics.
Flannel / Flannelette
Sewing difficulty: Easy
Flannel is soft, cosy, and warm, making it ideal for pyjamas, shirts, and blankets. It’s easy to handle and comes in various weights.
Flannel is relatively stable and doesn’t slip, making it suitable for beginner sewers. Flannel does fray easily, so finishing the edges with a zigzag stitch (or overlocker) is helpful.
Advantages of flannel clothing
Soft, warm, and cosy, often made from cotton or wool. Flannel is commonly used for pyjamas, bedding, and casual shirts, especially in cooler weather.
Disadvantages of flannel clothing
Prone to pilling over time, and some types may shrink when washed. Thicker flannel fabrics may feel heavy or overly warm in moderate temperatures.
Linen
Sewing difficulty: Moderate
Linen is lightweight, breathable, and has a crisp feel, perfect for warm-weather clothing. Its has a natural look and becomes softer with each wash.
Linen can be tricky to sew due to its tendency to fray and wrinkle. Using sharp needles and sewing carefully along the grain can help manage its movement.
Experienced sewers may find it easier to handle than beginners.
Advantages of linen clothing
Extremely breathable, highly absorbent, and dries quickly, which makes it ideal for hot weather. Linen has a crisp, textured look and softens with washing.
Disadvantages of linen clothing
Wrinkles very easily, is prone to shrinkage and requires careful handling in washing. Linen can also be more expensive than cotton.
Wool
Sewing difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Wool is warm, resilient, and is naturally elastic. It comes in various weights, from lightweight merino to thick wool felt, making it suitable for everything from suits to coats.
Wool is stable and forgiving but can be bulky in thick fabrics. For beginners, light or medium-weight wools are easier to handle. Pressing seams carefully is essential, as wool holds shape well when ironed.
Advantages of wool clothing
Warm, insulating, naturally elastic, resistant to wrinkles, and moisture-wicking. Wool is a great choice for cold weather and is often used in winter clothing.
Disadvantages of wool clothing
Requires special washing (often dry clean only), can be itchy on the skin, and some wool types may shrink or felt when washed improperly. It can also be prone to pilling over time.
Raw Silk
Sewing difficulty: Moderate
Raw silk, also known as “silk noil,” is a type of silk that has a natural, nubby texture, making it quite different from the smooth, shiny finish of traditional silk (see below).
It has unique characteristics and specific benefits, but it also comes with a few challenges when sewing. Raw silk has a matte finish and a slightly uneven, textured surface due to the presence of sericin (the silk gum) left in the fibres. This texture gives it a more rustic, organic look, which many people find appealing (me included – I love raw silk).
Raw silk is generally easier to sew than traditional silk due to its textured surface, which is less slippery. However, because of its tendency to fray, it’s still best for those with some sewing experience.
Raw silk can fray along the edges, especially when cut, so finishing the seams is important. Overlocking or using French seams can help prevent fraying.
Raw silk is also sensitive to temperature changes so be careful when pressing. Use a low-heat iron and a pressing cloth to avoid damaging or flattening the fabric. Steam can help relax wrinkles, but be careful not to let the iron linger too long, as raw silk is sensitive to high temperatures.
Advantages of raw silk clothing
Raw silk’s natural texture and moderate structure make it perfect for projects where you want a refined yet casual look. Here are a few ideal uses:
Raw silk is soft and breathable, making it comfortable to wear. It provides natural temperature regulation, keeping you cool in warm weather and warm in cooler temperatures.
Though it’s not as lightweight and fluid as regular silk, raw silk still drapes beautifully, giving garments a natural and relaxed flow that works well for loose tops, dresses, and scarves.
Raw silk is naturally absorbent, which makes it comfortable for extended wear. It has a pleasant, slightly cushioned feel that makes it suitable for loungewear, casual dresses, and soft blouses.
Disadvantages of raw silk clothing
Raw silk is prone to wrinkling, though not as much as linen. Pressing with a low-heat iron (with a pressing cloth to protect the fabric) can help maintain a neat appearance.
Raw silk can be sensitive to harsh detergents and high temperatures. It’s best to wash it gently by hand or on a delicate cycle with mild detergent and hang it to dry to avoid shrinkage or colour fading.
Since raw silk is minimally processed, colour may vary between batches, and it can fade if exposed to direct sunlight for prolonged periods. This variability can be part of its charm but can make matching pieces challenging.
Canvas
Sewing difficulty: Moderate
Canvas is rugged, sturdy, and often water-resistant. It’s used for bags, tents, shoes, and utility garments due to its durability.
Canvas is stiff and heavy, but it doesn’t shift or stretch. Using a heavy-duty needle and thread is essential. Canvas is suitable for confident beginners and intermediate sewers.
Advantages of canvas clothing
Strong, durable, and water-resistant. Canvas is often used for bags, tents, shoes, and heavy-duty items. It holds up well to wear and tear.
Disadvantages of canvas clothing
Heavy and can be stiff, making it less comfortable for certain types of clothing. Canvas can shrink if not pre-treated, and it may fade with washing or prolonged sun exposure.
Polyester
Sewing difficulty: Moderate
Polyester is strong, wrinkle-resistant, and often blended with other fibres to add durability. It’s low-maintenance and holds colour well.
While stable, polyester can be slick and hard to press. It sometimes melts under high heat, so low heat and a pressing cloth are essential. This fabric is a good choice for intermediate sewers.
Advantages of polyester clothing
Durable, wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying, and affordable. It retains its shape well, even after repeated washes, and is often blended with other fabrics to improve durability.
Disadvantages of polyester clothing
Not very breathable, can retain odours and may feel less comfortable against the skin compared to natural fibres. Polyester is also not biodegradable, which raises environmental concerns.
Rayon / Viscose
Sewing difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Rayon is a semi-synthetic fibre derived from natural cellulose, usually from wood pulp, bamboo, or cotton linters. While it comes from natural materials, the production process involves extensive chemical treatment, which is why it’s considered a semi-synthetic or regenerated cellulose fibre.
Rayon mimics natural fibres with its softness, smooth drape and absorbency. It’s suitable for warm-weather wear and has a flowy look, perfect for dresses and blouses.
Rayon can be slippery and prone to shrinking. It also frays easily, so edge finishing is necessary. It’s easier for intermediate sewers who have experience handling delicate fabrics
Rayon / viscose offers a great blend of comfort, drape, and versatility, making it a popular choice for both casual and formal clothing. While it requires careful handling due to its tendency to wrinkle, fray, and weaken when wet, it rewards patient sewers with garments that are elegant and comfortable. With attention to detail in pre-washing, cutting, and seam finishing, viscose can be a beautiful and rewarding fabric to sew with, especially for flowing, summer-friendly clothing.
Advantages of rayon clothing
Soft, comfortable, drapes well, and mimics the feel of natural fibres like cotton, linen, and silk. Rayon is lightweight and absorbent, making it comfortable for warm weather.
Disadvantages of rayon clothing
Not very durable, especially when wet, so it requires gentle handling. It can shrink easily, wrinkle, and often needs to be hand-washed or dry-cleaned.
Nylon
Sewing difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Nylon is durable, elastic, and lightweight, ideal for activewear and outdoor gear. It’s water-resistant and dries quickly, making it practical.
Nylon can be slippery, especially in thin, stretchy versions. Using a ballpoint needle helps avoid snagging. Seams should be reinforced due to nylon’s strength and elasticity, which requires practice.
Advantages of nylon clothing
Very strong, durable, and elastic. Nylon resists abrasion, dries quickly, and is often used in activewear, swimwear, and outerwear.
Disadvantages of nylon clothing
Not very breathable and can feel hot or sticky in warm weather. Like polyester, it’s non-biodegradable, raising sustainability concerns.
Denim
Sewing difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Denim is thick, durable, and versatile. It’s great for structured garments, like jeans, jackets, and bags, and softens with wear while holding its shape.
Denim is thick and can be tough to sew on home machines, especially on multiple layers. Using a heavy-duty needle and walking foot can help. It’s easier for intermediate sewers comfortable with thicker fabrics.
Advantages of denim clothing
Durable, rugged, and versatile, denim is a thick cotton twill fabric often used for jeans, jackets, and workwear. It softens with wear and washing.
Disadvantages of denim clothing
Heavyweight, which can be uncomfortable in hot weather. It can shrink, fade, or bleed colour if not washed carefully.
Lycra (spandex)
Sewing difficulty: Difficult
Lycra is highly stretchy and resilient, adding comfort and flexibility to garments like activewear, swimwear, and fitted clothing.
Stretch fabrics require a special stretch or ballpoint needle, as well as techniques to manage elasticity (e.g., using a zigzag stitch or serger).
Lycra can be challenging for beginners due to its stretch and slippery texture.
Advantages of lycra clothing
Extremely stretchy and provides excellent elasticity. Often blended with other fabrics to add stretch and comfort, making it ideal for sportswear and fitted garments.
Disadvantages of lycra clothing
Prone to heat damage and may degrade over time with exposure to sunlight and chlorine. It can lose elasticity if overstretched or not washed properly.
Silk
Sewing difficulty: Difficult
Silk has a beautiful sheen, a luxurious feel, and excellent drape, making it popular for formalwear. It feels light against the skin and offers natural temperature regulation.
Silk is slippery and delicate, requiring a fine needle and special handling. It frays easily, so serging edges and handling gently is key. Silk is best for experienced sewers who can handle its finicky nature.
Advantages of silk clothing
Luxurious, soft, smooth, and has a natural sheen. Silk is lightweight but surprisingly strong, and it drapes beautifully, making it ideal for formal wear.
Disadvantages of silk clothing
Expensive, requires gentle care (often dry clean only), and can weaken or stain with water. Silk is also prone to static cling and can be damaged by direct sunlight.
Chiffon
Sewing difficulty: Difficult
Chiffon is sheer, lightweight, and drapes beautifully, giving garments a delicate, flowing effect. It’s perfect for blouses, scarves, and eveningwear.
Chiffon is very delicate, slippery, and frays easily, making it challenging. It requires a fine needle, gentle handling, and precise cutting.
Chiffon is best suited for experienced sewers with patience and practice.
Advantages of chiffon clothing
Lightweight, sheer, and has a soft drape, making it popular for evening wear, blouses, and scarves. Chiffon has an airy, delicate look.
Disadvantages of chiffon clothing
Very delicate, prone to fraying, and can be challenging to sew. Chiffon is usually hand-wash only and can snag or tear easily.
Velvet
Sewing difficulty: Difficult
Velvet is rich and luxurious, with a soft texture and deep colour. It’s popular for formal wear, upholstery, and decorative items.
Velvet has a pile that can crush or mark easily. It’s challenging to sew because of its tendency to shift, and pressing must be done carefully. Special tools (like a needle board for pressing) are helpful.
Advantages of velvet clothing
Luxurious with a soft, rich texture and natural shine. Velvet is popular in formal wear, upholstery, and decorative accessories.
Disadvantages of velvet clothing
Difficult to care for, often requiring dry cleaning. Velvet can wear down or develop “crush marks” over time and is prone to collecting dust.
Leather
Sewing difficulty: Difficult
Leather is durable, water-resistant, and ages beautifully, with a unique, natural look. It’s used for jackets, bags, shoes, and upholstery.
Leather is thick, doesn’t have much give, and can’t be pinned without leaving holes. It requires a heavy-duty machine, leather needles, and special thread. It’s best for advanced sewers or those with the right equipment.
Advantages of leather clothing
Extremely durable, water-resistant, and ages well, developing a natural patina. Leather is used for jackets, bags, shoes, and upholstery.
Disadvantages of leather clothing
Expensive, requires special care, and is not very breathable. It can also be damaged by water, and some types of leather are sensitive to scratches.